Tag Archives: my library

8000m peaks: first ascent, first editions

8000m first ascents first editions

First editions of the first ascents of seven 8000m peaks

The other day I came across a list of books on the first editions of the first ascents of the 14 8000 meter peaks. I went through my library to see how many of them I owned and came up with seven. All seven have dust jackets and a couple of them are very rare and expensive. These are the first english language editions about these expeditions; some were originally published in other languages. Here are the titles and editions of my books shown in the photograph above:

  • Dhaulagiri 8167m
    The Ascent of Dhaulagiri by Max Eiselin, Oxford University Press, 1961
  • Everest 8848m
    The Ascent of Everest by John Hunt, Hodder and Stoughton, 1953
  • Cho Oyu 8201m
    Cho Oyu, By Favour of the Gods by Herbert Tichy, Methuen, 1957
  • Annapurna 8091m
    Annapurna by Maurice Herzog, Jonathan Cape, 1952
  • Nanga Parbat 8126m
    Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage by Hermann Buhl, Hodder and Stoughton, 1956
  • Makalu 8485m
    Makalu, a Team Triumphant by Jean Franco, Jonathan Cape, 1955
  • Kanchenjunga 8586m
    Kanchenjunga, the Untrodden Peak by Charles Evans, Hodder and Stoughton, 1956

It’s just by chance, on a visit to Hobart in Tasmania last weekend, that I picked up a fine copy of Cho Oyu, By Favour of the Gods by Herbert Tichy in a secondhand book shop for a very reasonable price. The first edition of that book in a dust jacket sells for anywhere between $300 to $600, depending on the condition.

Himalayan books

A few more treasures of travel and Himalayan mountaineering literature sitting on my shelf

I am missing the next seven, so it looks like I am now condemned to go out and hunt for the missing books. As if I needed another excuse to go out book hunting! Here is the list of the books I have to seek out. Luckily, after doing my research, it looks like I have already own the rare and expensive editions, except for Manaslu 1954-56 published by the Japanese Alpine Club. This one goes for $500 to $1000. I love a challenge and it wouldn’t be interesting if they were all easy to find. Here is the list:

  • K2 8611m
    Ascent of K2 by Prof, Ardito Desio , Elek, London, 1955
  • Lhotse 8516m
    The Everest Lhotse Adventure by Albert Eggler, Harper, New York, 1957
  • Broad Peak 8051m
    Broad Peak by Richard Sale, Carreg, Ross-on-Wye, 2004
  • Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) 8080m
    A walk in the sky – Climbing Hidden Peak by Nick A. Clinch, The Mountaineers, 1982
  • Gasherbrum II 8035m
    White Mountains – Black people by Fritz Moravec, Austrian Federal publisher 1958 (German-language edition)
  • Manaslu 8163m
    Japanese Alpine Club “Manaslu 1954-6”, The Mainichi Newspapers 1956 Incl. 13-page eng. Summary.
    In Volume 12 (1958-59) of “Mountains of the World”, there are two items on 15 pages in German: Yuko Mani (Exp.leiter) and Toshio Imanishi (summit team) on the successful expedition of 1956 in Volume 9 is also one item included.
  • Shishapangma 8027m
    English reports in:

    • Guozi Shuddian “Mountaineering in China”, Foreign Language Press 1965
    • Zhou Zeng & Liu Zhenkai: “Footprints on the peaks: Mountaineering in China”, Cloudcap 1995th
    • “Photographic record of the Mount Shisha Pangma Scientific Expedition “, Science Press Beijing 1966th
    • Books on this climb do not exist, but inthere is a reference and photos in a book by Manfred Abelein titled “Shisha Pangma”.

Happy hunting!


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A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush

What a find at the local secondhand book shop! A first edition of Eric Newby’s classic travel book A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush (Secker & Warburg, 1958) for AU$35. Great book at a great price.

This is why I love going browsing for books in good secondhand bookshops. You never know what you are going to find.

A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush

Browsing in secondhand bookshops is all about the hunt

I hadn’t been to the bookshop in months and was holding off going there as I knew I would buy something as the shop always has interesting and collectable books. I make a sweep of my favourite secondhand bookshops every few months to see what they have available. I really shouldn’t as my shelves are already overloaded with hundreds of books but then again am an addict.

A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush

You never know what you are going to find

Did I say I was an addict? To make matters worse I already own two first editions of this book; including a signed edition I picked up for a song off Ebay. If I see a great book that I already own at a very good price I generally buy it as I can always resell it or it will make a great gift for a friend who appreciates good books.



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